Home Technical Discussions Volkswagen EuroVan: 1992-2003 (T4)

Volkswagen EuroVan: 1992-2003 (T4) MY 2000 EV AES/114k miles Starting Problem


Permlink Replies: 7 - Pages: 1
Last Post: Jan 2, 2014 11:02 AM Last Post By: BobWiese
gduncanson

Posts: 10
Registered: 10/28/04
MY 2000 EV AES/114k miles Starting Problem
Posted: Dec 19, 2013 10:33 PM
  Click to reply to this thread Reply
start with a question--does the VR6 in the EV have a intake manifold shift rod like in the other VR6 engines?

i think something bad has happened to my engine. A couple days after the first really cold spell my wife parked the car and the following morning she called me at work and said it wouldn't start. It was still very cold that night and we park outside so I couldn't get into any troubleshooting other than eliminating the battery which i did by taking it out and having it tested. I then tried jumper cables from my passat without success.

the cold freeze in it;s fourth day and finally lifting but the engine now doesn't crank at all, the dash lights flicker and relays click, but engine doesn't turn over.

I think Saturday I will start by checking the starter, removing the upper timing chain cover, and then trying to manually turn the engine at the crank pulley.

Any tips would be appreciated.
TomB

Posts: 1,387
Registered: 08/06/02
Re: MY 2000 EV AES/114k miles Starting Problem
Posted: Dec 20, 2013 8:41 AM   in response to: gduncanson in response to: gduncanson
  Click to reply to this thread Reply
First thing I'd check is the ignition switch. My 2001 had a number of starting issues, mainly in cold weather, that all went away after I changed the electrical portion of the ignition switch. The contacts get burned and with mechanical wear it can affect both the starter position and the main circuit.
Also, check the fuse panel on the front of the battery (I assume the 2000 had this also). Poor contact on the cable ends connecting to these high-current fuses can cause burning and cracking of the fuses. For some reason my son's 2002 has needed replacement twice, both in cold weather. If the battery is good, but other contacts are poor, the current can't flow.
gduncanson

Posts: 10
Registered: 10/28/04
Re: MY 2000 EV AES/114k miles Starting Problem
Posted: Dec 20, 2013 6:58 PM   in response to: TomB in response to: TomB
  Click to reply to this thread Reply
Thanks for the quick reply Tom.

If my memory serves the saip has a fuse in the box in front of the battery. at any rate I know what you're referring to. I'll know more tomorrow,
gduncanson

Posts: 10
Registered: 10/28/04
Re: MY 2000 EV AES/114k miles Starting Problem
Posted: Dec 21, 2013 12:12 PM   in response to: gduncanson in response to: gduncanson
  Click to reply to this thread Reply
car is running again. turned out the a/c compressor is seized, the idler pulley bearing is shot (again-3 yrs old), and the the valve cover breather valve fitting was broken off.

And the battery was bad in cold.

does anyone know where I can source the breather valve off the valve cover and possibly a used a/c compressor (or if it can be bypassed by removing the pulley and buying a non a/c belt?
gduncanson

Posts: 10
Registered: 10/28/04
Re: MY 2000 EV AES/114k miles Starting Problem
Posted: Jan 1, 2014 12:36 PM   in response to: gduncanson in response to: gduncanson
  Click to reply to this thread Reply
final notes:

the bearing on the A/C pulley was completely shot, just a few ball bearings remained. I was able to get just the Santech bearing from Autozone for the a/c pulley for $19. put the clutch back together and it turned freely by hand. Under power however, there was significant chirping from it.

for several reasons I decided just to remove the clutch altogether and use the bypass belt; the belt clears the spindle of the compressor with over an inch of clearance so full removal of the compressor was not necessary. the belt I got was a Gates K070505 24mmx1300mm.

All is back together and quiet, come summer I'll take it to a garage and have them evac the system for me so I can install a new compressor.

One other note, VW sells the entire valve cover vent assembly for about $225 (they don't call it a PCV though). It has a steel coolant hose within it. On mine, only the rubber grommet connecting the vent on the valve cover to the assembly was torn open. Rather than pony up for the entire assembly, I found that earlier Eurovans do have pancake PCV valves that sit on top of the valve cover and the connecting rubber grommet is sold seperately. I believe sd-euro has it for about $2 but I got it from the dealer for $9 and it fit perfectly for the purpose.

I noted some things which I'll fix on future warm days.
BobWiese

Posts: 35
Registered: 10/14/07
Re: MY 2000 EV AES/114k miles Starting Problem
Posted: Jan 2, 2014 6:37 AM   in response to: gduncanson in response to: gduncanson
  Click to reply to this thread Reply
Was it difficult to replace the A/C bearing. My MV is at 150k and the A/C is getting noisy as is my tensioner wheel.

Does anyone know if you can replace only the tensioner wheel and not the entire $$ tensioner assembly? If so, where to get?
gduncanson

Posts: 10
Registered: 10/28/04
Re: MY 2000 EV AES/114k miles Starting Problem
Posted: Jan 2, 2014 10:56 AM   in response to: BobWiese in response to: BobWiese
  Click to reply to this thread Reply
replacing the a/c bearing is very easy. I called my Local VW dealer and got the part# for the entire clutch assembly but it wasn't available online seperately. VW of course wanted $600 for just the clutch. But no complaints because they were helpful guys and becuase that didn't pan out I looked into just the bearing which was even cheaper :).

borrow the tools from Autozone, you'll need two boxes. one is to pull the clutch off the compressor and the other is to pull the pulley off the compressor. if you don't have a snap ring wrench, i'd suggest getting one, they're useful. you'll need to remove two of the three to get the pulley off.

My bearing was in two pieces the inner race did come off with the pulley. the outer race I had to bang out of the pulley by working around the edges. be sure to remove the snap ring first.

grease the pulley surface and press in the new bearing (i used the old outer race and my workbench vise). I suppose a big socket like in the 20-24mm range would also work well.

btw, there are video's on you tube for disassembly of santech compressors which helped me tremendously.



regarding your tensioner. count yourself fortunate to have gotten 150k out of the pulley. mine failed at about 70k and I bought a replacement pulley from germanautoparts.com at a cost of about $75. for east coast people I highly recommend those guys. there are now some other vendors selling replacement VR6 pulley, Gruven comes to mind and a guy on ebay sells an anodized version. Plug N Play as they say. the hardest part is wrenching in the bolt to release the tension on the pulley. and the bolt holding the pulley on is reverse threaded.

GOOD LUCK. those are easy problems to have.
BobWiese

Posts: 35
Registered: 10/14/07
Re: MY 2000 EV AES/114k miles Starting Problem
Posted: Jan 2, 2014 11:02 AM   in response to: gduncanson in response to: gduncanson
  Click to reply to this thread Reply
Excellent info, thank you. I appreciate you mentioning the reverse threading on the pully wheel. I will probably take care of both the A/C and the pully once we have a warm spell in NC. -Bob

Point your RSS reader here for a feed of the latest messages in all forums

Popular Discussions:
Volkswagen EuroVan: 1992-2003 (T4)