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Volkswagen Vanagon: 1980-1991 (T3) OK--In plaino English for this unwashed college grad> 2.1 Valve Adjustment


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Last Post: Nov 2, 2009 8:23 AM Last Post By: markymarkvw
markymarkvw

Posts: 168
Registered: 11/18/06
OK--In plaino English for this unwashed college grad> 2.1 Valve Adjustment
Posted: Nov 1, 2009 6:50 PM
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I need to do the rack on my 87 2.1.
I've read the Bentley manual. I am more confused than ever now.

Anyone of the resident experts have a PDF or a simplistic version of
valve adjustment on the 2.1?
TomB

Posts: 1,207
Registered: 08/06/02
Re: OK--In plaino English for this unwashed college grad> 2.1 Valve Adjustment
Posted: Nov 1, 2009 7:38 PM   in response to: markymarkvw in response to: markymarkvw
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I've never adjusted the valves on a 2.1 except when rebuilding after 150K or so. (VW didn't even have valve adjustment on the maintenance schedule.) Otherwise the lifters should self-adjust enough to take up the wear, unless there is some other problem. So I'm curious, have you done a rebuild, is there a sign of a problem, or do you just feel it's time?
The reason for asking is that the lifters need to be fully filled with oil to get a good adjustment. If you are just doing a periodic adjustment on an engine, you would need to back off the adjustment to remove the preload, and that might leave an air pocket in the lifter, making it hard to set.
On a rebuild you carefully oil-fill the lifters before assembling to eliminate trapped air, assemble with the adjusters backed out, then set each set to just contact (zero lash) and add 1/2 to 2 turns to compress the hydraulic mechanism so they will self adjust.
If you find a lifter that has trapped air it won't feel solid when the adjuster touches, as the internal spring can easily compress without a solid oil fill. (This is also what happens if you back off the adjuster on a built engine.) Then you have to be real careful not to compress the lifter before adding the 1/2 to 2 turns, or you can bottom out the hydraulic and hold the valve open. It will take a while running with the oil good and hot (thin) for such lifters to pump up and quiet down.
If you are just doing a periodic valve adjustment (not recommended) I wouldn't touch any that don't have free play: just let the hydraulics do their job. If there is free play it could just be that the lifter has trapped air and hasn't pumped up, so you have to back off the adjustment and see if you can feel the lifter compress after you take up the gap. Again, go 1/2 to 2 turns after contact, not after compressing the lifter spring.
Bob Donalds used to recommend adjusting first as if they were solid, by leaving a .004-6 gap and driving with the tick-tick until you were sure the lifters had pumped up, then go back and adjust to zero lash plus 1/2 turn compression.
It is a bit confusing until you develop a feel for what is happening; but once they are set right just leave them alone.
FKH161

Posts: 5,903
Registered: 12/29/05
Re: OK--In plaino English for this unwashed college grad> 2.1 Valve Adjustm
Posted: Nov 1, 2009 8:08 PM   in response to: TomB in response to: TomB
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Attachment rocker002.jpg (250.6 KB)
Attachment rocker001.jpg (224.5 KB)
Start with cyl 1 at TDC (you know cyl 1 is at TDC when #3 Intake & Exhaust valves
wiggle in & out as you turn the engine by hand back & forth over the TDC position.

I hope that made sense.

Loosen the 14/15mm nuts and slowly turn one of the adjuster screws out, while at
the same time feeling for play between the adjuster screw & the valve stem head.
(Try to wiggle the rocker arm in & out against the valve).

Once you feel a little play, turn back-in till the play is gone. From there continue
to turn IN 1.5 to 2 turns (I usually set to 1.5). If you feel play as soon as you touch
the rocker, then that lifter (like TomB) mentioned, is not fully "pumped-up". This
is no big deal, you just have to be a little more careful in how much pressure you
place on the screwdriver when turning, so that you can still feel when you have
actual freeplay as you turn the adjuster screw out to get to the 0 position.

Once cyl 1 is done, rotate the engine 180 deg COUNTERCLOCKWISE, this will
bring cyl 2 to TDC... adjust #2 and then turn the crankshaft 180 deg CC again to
set cyl 3 at TDC.

The firing order is 1-4-3-2... so turning the engine backwards from #1 will result in
1-2-3-4 :-)

***Note***

If you allow for too much slack, the pushrod can un-seat from the hydraulic lifter
and will sit on its outer rim... resulting in an incorrectly adjusted valve and possibly
a noisy/rough running engine if left that way.

Be sure to use a flashlight to look down all the pushrod tubes, to make sure that all
the rods are sitting correctly inside the hydraulic lifters as well as in the rocker arm
cup.

Also, if the adjuster screws do not turn smoothly, you might have one with a worn
tip/head... see attached images. You will need to remove the screw from the rocker
and replace it with a new one. A temporary fix you can do, is to take the screw to
a grinder and re-flatten the tip, leaving the tip slightly rounded.

Image 2 shows two green circles, one with a worn adjuster and the other circle with
a normal wear pattern.
markymarkvw

Posts: 168
Registered: 11/18/06
Re: OK--In plaino English for this unwashed college grad> 2.1 Valve Adjustm
Posted: Nov 2, 2009 8:23 AM   in response to: FKH161 in response to: FKH161
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That make sense. I'll attempt this feat this afternoon once the sun warms up the driveway.

The van in question was a purchase from a broke DOT.Commer in the bay area of California which had a bad headgasket.
The head is complete and the van has made numerous trips up to my mt home in the Sierras but has a rattly lifter on the side that was repaired. I think I may of left the valves loose.

I also now wished I had replaced the hydro lifters when the head was off the engine.

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