Start with cyl 1 at TDC (you know cyl 1 is at TDC when #3 Intake & Exhaust valves
wiggle in & out as you turn the engine by hand back & forth over the TDC position.
I hope that made sense.
Loosen the 14/15mm nuts and slowly turn one of the adjuster screws out, while at
the same time feeling for play between the adjuster screw & the valve stem head.
(Try to wiggle the rocker arm in & out against the valve).
Once you feel a little play, turn back-in till the play is gone. From there continue
to turn IN 1.5 to 2 turns (I usually set to 1.5). If you feel play as soon as you touch
the rocker, then that lifter (like TomB) mentioned, is not fully "pumped-up". This
is no big deal, you just have to be a little more careful in how much pressure you
place on the screwdriver when turning, so that you can still feel when you have
actual freeplay as you turn the adjuster screw out to get to the 0 position.
Once cyl 1 is done, rotate the engine 180 deg COUNTERCLOCKWISE, this will
bring cyl 2 to TDC... adjust #2 and then turn the crankshaft 180 deg CC again to
set cyl 3 at TDC.
The firing order is 1-4-3-2... so turning the engine backwards from #1 will result in
1-2-3-4
***Note***
If you allow for too much slack, the pushrod can un-seat from the hydraulic lifter
and will sit on its outer rim... resulting in an incorrectly adjusted valve and possibly
a noisy/rough running engine if left that way.
Be sure to use a flashlight to look down all the pushrod tubes, to make sure that all
the rods are sitting correctly inside the hydraulic lifters as well as in the rocker arm
cup.
Also, if the adjuster screws do not turn smoothly, you might have one with a worn
tip/head... see attached images. You will need to remove the screw from the rocker
and replace it with a new one. A temporary fix you can do, is to take the screw to
a grinder and re-flatten the tip, leaving the tip slightly rounded.
Image 2 shows two green circles, one with a worn adjuster and the other circle with
a normal wear pattern.