To get at the whole cable assembly, you need to remove the
instrument cluster from the dash.

As for the heater panel:
- the heater levers pull out

• the blower motor know also pulls out
• the heater panel/face plate is held to the dash by two pins
• use a flat screwdriver and insert it under the panel and

give it a twist, to lift/raise the panel from the dash at
either end of the panel plate

edit-

cable instead of lever assembly

Message was edited by: FKH161

The micro switch is on the bottom of the TB.

The wiring harness to it is located on top of the #1 intake
runner (2 wire harness).

When the switch is adjusted too tight, it does not release
early enough when the TB opens... the computer then cuts
fuel at around 1800rpm and that's when you get the bucking cycle.

There are two allen-head (small) bolts on the mounting plate. One tightens the switch in position, the other adjust an eccentric to adjust the trip point. If it's quiet you can hear the click as you start to open the throttle. The switches tend to develop more dead-band as they wear, so it won't open and close at the same position. It should click as the throttle comes off the stop, and must click again as the throttle closes. Spec is for a point of .002-.004" off the throttle stop.

The switches are easy to find. Fry's electronics has them. Any pinball machine parts house has them. You can also get them from Mouser or Newark electronics.
They're cheap, too!
If the motor is off and you can't hear them click as you open and close the throttle by hand then they should be replaced. They are integral to the engine/idle management system (especially if you're running CIS-E or digi...I don't remember which system is used on which vans at the moment) and need to be working properly and adjusted properly.

Thomas

Yep. You can still use the ones from pinball machines, coke machines, etc. Just drill out the rivets and replace with #4 bolts and nuts instead of rivets.

Thomas