See attached image...

- remove everything but the timing belt & tensioner

• rotate the engine via crank bolt until you see the mark

on the camshaft sprocket line-up with the top of the cykinder
head (flush with valve cover gasket)
- at this point the crank sprocket should look like the attached
image
- dimple at 7 o'clock and 2 pulley bolt holes, 1 at 12'o clock
and the other at 6 o'clock
- the dimple at the intermeadiate "should" be next to the edge
of the flange as pointed out with dots

*** the dot on the intermediate shaft pulley does not "have"
to be exactly there... since the distributor can be turned
for final timing adjustments ***

The engine will run if the camshaft is off a few teeth... it
may run sluggish, but it will run.

The 2nd attached image shows an "adjustable camshaft sprocket"
with which "camshaft timing" can be adjusted without removeing
the timing belt... see how wide the "slotted sections" are?

Hey guys!!! Thanks a lot for the info and pictures... I had seen those pulleys in racers and figured they were only for high performance applications...
I will be removing the belt tonight and checking on the crank sprocket to see if it is worn...
Thank you again and Happy Holidays!!!

Not sure why I didn't mention the flywheel mark in the initial post above... the reference
to comparing it with the pulley notch in the later reply does mention it though.

Personally, I always use the mark at the flywheel, due to the possible sprocket issue.