My car starts fine, idles good, runs good for about 30 minutes. Then it dies and won't start for about 20 minutes. It turns over but doesn't fire at all.. Then, like magic, it starts right up and runs for another 30 minutes or so. The temp guage reads 90C when it quits. The oil pressure guage reads 4.5 bar under load. (5 bar scale). I put in a new fuel filter hoping that would be an easy fix, but it didn't help. I can't duplicate the problem at a shop.
You are going to have to do some simple diagnostic work. When the car dies, you'll have to figure out if the problem is either air/fuel or ignition related. Does your engine/ecu have self diagnostic ability? (you don't mention the year, engine code, or location on our planet) You might want to start there.
Suspect a bad fuel pump/fuel pump relay (fuel related) or a bad hall sender in the distributor. (ignition related) Intermittent failure of either component (very common) will put you on the roadside. A major vacuum leak (in the main intake boot) in combination with failed motor mounts could also generate similar symptoms.
There are numerous previous threads/posts in the archives.
"What do the motor mounts have to do with this type of problem?"
Provided the vehicle has Bosch K "X" type fuel injection, there is a flexible rubber intake air boot that mounts at one end to the air flow meter which is mounted on the body of the car. The other end is mounted to the throttle body which is mounted on the intake manifold. (engine) When the motor mounts fail, especially the right mount, the engine can rock/move on its mounts farther than normally intended. When the intake boot gets older and hard, the excessive engine movement rips/tears a hole in the rubber intake boot creating a massive intake (false) air leak which bypasses the air flow meter and can cause the engine to stall. It normally happens after the engine warms up and the intake boot softens, and/or at mid range and higher throttle settings as the engine torques the mounts. It will also eventually happen at idle as the tear/hole gets progressively worse. At that point, the engine usually refuses to start.
Chumley, thanks for the info. I am in Krygyzstan (location on the planet). I think I'll start with the fuel relay since that easiest fix. If I can just figure out which one it is. The fuse/relay guide is in german. The locals speak russian, and I speak English.
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